Saturday, July 16, 2011
Luxembourg City (04.26.09)
Luxembourg City Photos
Luxembourg is a fascinating, tiny country that feels at once French and a little German and still distinctly its own, that being its unique self that's fed off its position sandwiched between those countries and Belgium. The buildings and signage are quintessentially French. The people seemed to be generally friendlier than the French, though, and more open to different language possibilities.
We parked in the lot next to the train station and sought out the TI kiosk inside. Drew was ready to speak French but the guy behind the counter immediately switched to English. He provided us with maps and told us to walk up Avenue de la Liberté, and we were off.
Unlike other places we visited, which had involved previous research and a guidebook in hand, we flew relatively blind in Luxembourg. I had absolutely no memory of any history lesson that involved it. Thus we pretty much just wandered, loosely following the map, and identified some buildings based on the map but other than knowing that we were in the Place de Paris or crossing the Pont Adolphe, we didn't know when or why anything had been built. Thus if nothing else Luxembourg made me realize how generally educated I am about places when I visit them. Thus in one sense I was at a disadvantage in another I was weirdly liberated, just admiring the scenery instead of thinking about it very much.
I think Luxembourg is the cleanest, wealthiest city I've ever visited. It stood in stark contrast to Sarajevo and Mostar, even in relation to very clean and wealthy German cities. It was clearly once a fortified military town; the walls and fortifications are easy to spot and the hills and valleys give you an idea of how defensible it must have been back when that was important. We spent the majority of our time either on bridges or walls or in beautiful squares and alleys. We had this crazy idea that we'd have a Luxembourgian (yeah, no clue if that's the right word) meal and were nearly knocked down by the prices, which were high by London standards to give you an idea. We ended up with a cafe dinner of extremely costly sandwiches, but considered that price as much for having a table at which to enjoy the ambiance of the square.
The saddest thing that happened on our entire trip was that I was trying to take a zoomed-in picture of gargoyles while juggling the umbrella and I dropped my camera, which fell with the zoomed lens extended onto the street and could not be salvaged. Thus this is the end of blog entries with photos, unless Drew catches up and lets me link to his.
Luxembourg is a fascinating, tiny country that feels at once French and a little German and still distinctly its own, that being its unique self that's fed off its position sandwiched between those countries and Belgium. The buildings and signage are quintessentially French. The people seemed to be generally friendlier than the French, though, and more open to different language possibilities.
We parked in the lot next to the train station and sought out the TI kiosk inside. Drew was ready to speak French but the guy behind the counter immediately switched to English. He provided us with maps and told us to walk up Avenue de la Liberté, and we were off.
Unlike other places we visited, which had involved previous research and a guidebook in hand, we flew relatively blind in Luxembourg. I had absolutely no memory of any history lesson that involved it. Thus we pretty much just wandered, loosely following the map, and identified some buildings based on the map but other than knowing that we were in the Place de Paris or crossing the Pont Adolphe, we didn't know when or why anything had been built. Thus if nothing else Luxembourg made me realize how generally educated I am about places when I visit them. Thus in one sense I was at a disadvantage in another I was weirdly liberated, just admiring the scenery instead of thinking about it very much.
I think Luxembourg is the cleanest, wealthiest city I've ever visited. It stood in stark contrast to Sarajevo and Mostar, even in relation to very clean and wealthy German cities. It was clearly once a fortified military town; the walls and fortifications are easy to spot and the hills and valleys give you an idea of how defensible it must have been back when that was important. We spent the majority of our time either on bridges or walls or in beautiful squares and alleys. We had this crazy idea that we'd have a Luxembourgian (yeah, no clue if that's the right word) meal and were nearly knocked down by the prices, which were high by London standards to give you an idea. We ended up with a cafe dinner of extremely costly sandwiches, but considered that price as much for having a table at which to enjoy the ambiance of the square.
The saddest thing that happened on our entire trip was that I was trying to take a zoomed-in picture of gargoyles while juggling the umbrella and I dropped my camera, which fell with the zoomed lens extended onto the street and could not be salvaged. Thus this is the end of blog entries with photos, unless Drew catches up and lets me link to his.
Trier (04.26.09)
Trier Photos
I had put together three prospective day trips for our time in and around the Mosel Valley. I presented Drew with the options and he selected going west to Trier and, if we felt like it, on to Luxembourg.
Trier is a crazy place. It's sort of like being in Rome, except it's not at all Italian. In Italy you sort of expect to have Roman sites popping up all over the place. Sure, there are a few sprinkled in Britain; Bath was weird but since the baths were in, well, Bath, it wasn't surprising at all. But this was my first Continental European Roman city that has a ginormous and quintessentially Roman architecture smacking you right in the face. There was a lot of us quoting Eddie Izzard's "Ah, the Romans were here"—just like San Francisco! Aside from that, the city is just plain old, pre-dating the Romans themselves by a thousand years give or take. There aren't many signs of that, though, with the Roman stuff dominating. I imagine its extra-dominant because Trier was one of the Roman capital cities in its day.
We found a parking garage near the Market Square used it to orient us, finding the aptly-named Porta Nigra easily. It's one of those can't-miss-it sort of things. Walking north on the main thoroughfare from the square, bam! Giant Roman gate, as pictured in my previous post. There were multiple gates such as this, but this is the only one still standing and the walls themselves aren't much there anymore either; we saw portions at the amphitheater, which sat right in the middle of the walls, later in the day.
Anyway, the gate's still around because it became a church, and churches tend to survive better than most buildings (under most circumstances, anyway). There isn't much in the way of church-y bits left, though, thanks to Napoleon's intervention. We avoided the (surely authentic) Centurion-led tour and explored on our own, appreciating how well the craftsmanship has stood up over the centuries, particularly since the Romans didn't use any mortar. The views from the gate were also quite lovely; we could see the hills surrounding the town as well as the cathedral, which was our next destination, via the Hauptmarkt (the Market Square).
This had to have been the most pristine and colorful—borderline Disney-esque—square we'd seen so far, which is saying something since we'd been to some pretty cute towns. I think that the larger size of this one served to enhance its cuteness. The H&M was positively darling in its pink building, formerly home to the archbishop, who must be rolling over in his grave. We bought sandwiches and had a people-watching picnic in the square, which seemed to be our lunchtime MO in German towns with cute squares.
After lunch we swung by the cathedral, which is, well, a cathedral, mainly remarkable because it's super old; I think the oldest one in the country. It's nice enough and beautifully preserved/restored, but I enjoyed the nearby Roman basilica more. It was infuriatingly hard to photograph, inside and out, because it's surrounded by buildings (including one silly wedding cake of a building) so you can't really capture its grandeur; the interior is filled with light and bricks. It's positively cavernous and would have been even more impressive when it served as a throne room for Constantine (yes, that Constantine). It's a church now and tastefully done.
From there we headed to Constantine's baths, which were positively labyrinthine. We had so much fun wandering in the maze where the slaves labored to keep what was surely an impressive network of furnaces going. We chose to disregard our guidebook's advice and went to the amphitheater next. It was a bit of a hike outside of town, but well worth it; I'm glad we made the trek. Sure, it's no Colosseum, but because of its relatively diminutive scale you get a much better idea of how it all worked. Plus you really can go almost anywhere in it, including underneath, and we enjoyed playing lions and Christians.
Returning to town proper, we swung by Karl Marx's birthplace, because how could we not? There's something wrong about shopping in the Karl Marx gift shop, but that didn't stop me from buying postcards.
Wrapping up our day in Trier, we decided that Luxembourg City was simply too close to miss at merely 50km away, and fled Germany for a bit.
I had put together three prospective day trips for our time in and around the Mosel Valley. I presented Drew with the options and he selected going west to Trier and, if we felt like it, on to Luxembourg.
Trier is a crazy place. It's sort of like being in Rome, except it's not at all Italian. In Italy you sort of expect to have Roman sites popping up all over the place. Sure, there are a few sprinkled in Britain; Bath was weird but since the baths were in, well, Bath, it wasn't surprising at all. But this was my first Continental European Roman city that has a ginormous and quintessentially Roman architecture smacking you right in the face. There was a lot of us quoting Eddie Izzard's "Ah, the Romans were here"—just like San Francisco! Aside from that, the city is just plain old, pre-dating the Romans themselves by a thousand years give or take. There aren't many signs of that, though, with the Roman stuff dominating. I imagine its extra-dominant because Trier was one of the Roman capital cities in its day.
We found a parking garage near the Market Square used it to orient us, finding the aptly-named Porta Nigra easily. It's one of those can't-miss-it sort of things. Walking north on the main thoroughfare from the square, bam! Giant Roman gate, as pictured in my previous post. There were multiple gates such as this, but this is the only one still standing and the walls themselves aren't much there anymore either; we saw portions at the amphitheater, which sat right in the middle of the walls, later in the day.
Anyway, the gate's still around because it became a church, and churches tend to survive better than most buildings (under most circumstances, anyway). There isn't much in the way of church-y bits left, though, thanks to Napoleon's intervention. We avoided the (surely authentic) Centurion-led tour and explored on our own, appreciating how well the craftsmanship has stood up over the centuries, particularly since the Romans didn't use any mortar. The views from the gate were also quite lovely; we could see the hills surrounding the town as well as the cathedral, which was our next destination, via the Hauptmarkt (the Market Square).
This had to have been the most pristine and colorful—borderline Disney-esque—square we'd seen so far, which is saying something since we'd been to some pretty cute towns. I think that the larger size of this one served to enhance its cuteness. The H&M was positively darling in its pink building, formerly home to the archbishop, who must be rolling over in his grave. We bought sandwiches and had a people-watching picnic in the square, which seemed to be our lunchtime MO in German towns with cute squares.
After lunch we swung by the cathedral, which is, well, a cathedral, mainly remarkable because it's super old; I think the oldest one in the country. It's nice enough and beautifully preserved/restored, but I enjoyed the nearby Roman basilica more. It was infuriatingly hard to photograph, inside and out, because it's surrounded by buildings (including one silly wedding cake of a building) so you can't really capture its grandeur; the interior is filled with light and bricks. It's positively cavernous and would have been even more impressive when it served as a throne room for Constantine (yes, that Constantine). It's a church now and tastefully done.
From there we headed to Constantine's baths, which were positively labyrinthine. We had so much fun wandering in the maze where the slaves labored to keep what was surely an impressive network of furnaces going. We chose to disregard our guidebook's advice and went to the amphitheater next. It was a bit of a hike outside of town, but well worth it; I'm glad we made the trek. Sure, it's no Colosseum, but because of its relatively diminutive scale you get a much better idea of how it all worked. Plus you really can go almost anywhere in it, including underneath, and we enjoyed playing lions and Christians.
Returning to town proper, we swung by Karl Marx's birthplace, because how could we not? There's something wrong about shopping in the Karl Marx gift shop, but that didn't stop me from buying postcards.
Wrapping up our day in Trier, we decided that Luxembourg City was simply too close to miss at merely 50km away, and fled Germany for a bit.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
And We're Back...
Hey, are you still interested in our trip to Europe two years ago? Great!
While processing my photos from my recent trip to Alaska, I realized that I hadn't finished posting Argentina photos. Of course, I didn't blog at all in Argentina, opting to take pictures instead. While digging through my photos for Argentina, I came across some photos from Germany and Luxembourg, so having finished posting Argentina photos I'm back to that. Fortunately, y'all are used to massive delays and out-of-order postings. To help out, the most recent chronological posting for this trip is our day in Frankfurt following by our arrival in the town of Cochem on the beautiful Mosel River. We rented a flat for four days and took day trips from there, the first of which was to Trier and Luxembourg City. If I stick with it, you should see that posting soon. Stay tuned (teaser photo included as incentive)!
While processing my photos from my recent trip to Alaska, I realized that I hadn't finished posting Argentina photos. Of course, I didn't blog at all in Argentina, opting to take pictures instead. While digging through my photos for Argentina, I came across some photos from Germany and Luxembourg, so having finished posting Argentina photos I'm back to that. Fortunately, y'all are used to massive delays and out-of-order postings. To help out, the most recent chronological posting for this trip is our day in Frankfurt following by our arrival in the town of Cochem on the beautiful Mosel River. We rented a flat for four days and took day trips from there, the first of which was to Trier and Luxembourg City. If I stick with it, you should see that posting soon. Stay tuned (teaser photo included as incentive)!
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
On the Wordle Bandwagon
I decided to make a Wordle of all my travel writing. I'm somehow not surprised that Drew, photos, and Ireland figure prominently. Since I decided to photo-document our Argentina trip only and I've never managed to post my Spain entries, this is sorely missing bits about those. Still, pretty neat.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Argentina Thus Far, in Photos
So far I haven't done a great job of writing about Argentina, but I have taken bunches of photos. Check 'em out:
Monday, November 8, 2010
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Germany and Bosnia Photos by Andrew, One Year Later
As those of you who know us well are aware, there's generally a significant lag between our trips and the evidence of them. I did pretty well last year blogging about our Germany et al. trip, but as you probably noticed, I got behind and then disappeared just a bit into week two. Someday I'll finish writing about them, hopefully before I forget what we did. Andrew has a better record, always finishing editing his photos, but he has a 1–2 year backlog of work because he takes so many pictures, well, everywhere and of everything. He's recently caught up with our trip and has these photos posted:
- Munich
- Dachau
- Sarajevo
- Mostar, Sarajevo, and points in between
- More Mostar, plus Rothenburg and Dinkelsbuhl
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